ChewyIrishDoodleAdolescent

So in week 2, we are exposing Chewy to distractions outside.  He really needs this, as some things startle him a lot.   Noises in particular, no matter how far away, have been distracting to him.  Of course people are always a lure too. I stress goals below, because practice that reaches goals is the only thing that teaches the dog how it is done.   If you are not committed to working to your goals (which are a sliding scale all the time), you will leave big holes in your training.   Sits first command with verbal and collar correction as needed (I use this for a warm-up when we are about to train to get him in the working head space).  The goal was met in the three sessions of four in a row in about 2 minutes.    Still sit-stays in the yard with Chewy.   Also, this is a warm-up for circle sit stays outside, which is harder.  This exercise also met the goal of about 5 minutes to complete 4 1-minute sit-stays. Circle sit-...

  Equipment Needed:  6’ Leash, Training Collar (or a slip lead could replace the two).  NOTE 1: IF YOU USE THE SLIP LEAD, THE COLLAR CORRECTION IS NOT AS CLEAN OR PRECISE. IF YOU HAVE AN AMENABLE DOG, THIS PROBABLY WON’T BE A PROBLEM.   NOTE 2: YOU DON’T NEED TO PRACTICE EVERY TIME WHILE HEELING. YOU CAN DO THESE WHILE JUST WALKING WITH YOUR DOG AS WELL.   Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This exercise is the end goal for the molding and interim sit exercises you have been doing. You want to be able to stand up straight now for both the command and the correction (the correction is loose, tight, loose but quickly with the chain training collar, and just a tug with the slip leash) The goal for this week will be to do three sets of four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well-timed correction when it is needed).  You will want to do this (with the heeling) for half an hour ...

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) 15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:...

  The key to teaching an adolescent dog to be calmer and less likely to jump is to incorporate behavioral chill exercises and dog training that utilizes stationary commands for impulse control.  By using them repeatedly in various situations, the dog learns that jumping is not desired. Also, using the chill and stationary commands will help with counter surfing and begging. We have started walking and working on loose leash walking while we walk outside.  I haven't videoed this yet, but we have also been doing sits and sit-stays outside on the walks.  They take longer to reach their goals outside with the increased distractions All exercises are worked on until we reach our goals.   So sit first command goal for 3 sessions of 4 sits in a row without needing a verbal and collar correction is 3 minutes or less.   Still sit stays of one minute has a goal of 6 minutes or less.   Send to place has a goal of 3 sessions of 4 in a row for 5...

  Long place is technically the 4th step in the overall place command:   First step is intro.  Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it.  "Place" is said when all paws are on the place. Second step is teaching the dog to step on the place themselves. Third step is teaching them that there is a boundary they should not step off. Fourth step is beginning to proof and advance this exercise by having them keep themselves on the place for a period of time.   Trainer only gets involved if they try to leave. This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).   This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but it is important that owners have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.   Usually ...

   THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE (STEP 1): STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room. STEP 2:  Start walking your dog around the room. STEP 3:   Walk  with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place". STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this). STEP 5:  After several (15 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.   SEND TO PLACE (STEP 2): STEP 1:   You still have a leash and collar on your dog.   The place (board, mat, dog bed) item is in the middle of the room so you can walk around it, and use all sides to place your dog (so that they do not generalize). STEP 2:    Now as you a...

PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:  The dog is required to perform the position of the command, and stay there until the release word is given.   The handler/owner will be increasing the ...

The goal for this week will be to do four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well timed correction when it is needed).   You will want to do this (with the heeling) for a half an hour a day. NOTE:  WE DID NOT START HEELING ON WEEK ONE, SO THESE ARE WHAT I CALL RANDOM SITS FIRST COMMAND. STEP 1 :  Heel with your dog, but be sure that your dog is in good heel position before preparing for the sit command.. STEP 2:    When ready say "sit" as you plant your left foot (while standing you will also close this up with your right foot, but you want to say sit while your dog is in good heel position to catch them as soon as possible---they will later learn to read this body language to create an auto sit).     Also keep your leash loose like a J next to the dog's neck when you say sit (no tension in the leash.   remember tension is only in times of correction) STEP 3: Give...

  Equipment Needed:   (optional unless outside, then long line needed or ecollar) 6' leash inside for dragging, training collar on dog (even though you won't really be using it, it could be a flat collar too), Flirt Pole. NOTE:  ANY TOYS USED IN PLAY TRAINING ARE ALWAYS JUST USED FOR PLAY TRAINING.  YOUR DOG CAN HAVE OTHER TOYS, BUT THIS TOY ONLY COMES OUT FOR PLAY TRAINING SESSIONS. If you want to know more about play training, check out this series on my business blog,  play training series .  This is more of a series in why it is valuable and things to avoid. STEP 1:   Typically, if your dog knows it, put your dog in a sit while you get the flirt pole. STEP 2:   When you are ready, use your release word "yes" and wiggle the toy at the end of the bungee on the pole like prey.   If your dog or puppy are not the most graceful, remember you want them to get the lure.   The object is NOT to keep the lure from them as lo...

  STEP 1:    The owner should be in a seated position somewhere comfortable. STEP 2:   Hold the puppy on your lap on their back. STEP 3:    Any time the puppy squirms or struggles, just hold them to your firmly. STEP 4:    When the puppy is calm ONLY (do not do this while mouthing ET, because we are teaching to be calm when being examined) start examining each part of her body (paws, in between toes, ears, belly as if for ticks, legs ***this can also show you any unusual growths or changes***, teeth, ET). Do this for about a fifteen minutes  while watching TV or relaxing in bed each day.

Exercise: Sit on The Dog (do not confuse with the down exercise later on) Equipment needed: Metal Training Collar (for puppies a flat collar will due but be sure they can't slip their head out if it's too loose), 6' leather lead, chair for handler to sit on that they aren't too worried about (IE an antique chair would not be a good idea, especially for a dog that might try to chew something other than their toy while you aren't watching, but a good metal folding chair will do), silence which means no verbal commands, praise, or corrections. Also no conversations of any sort with your dog. Objective and Goals: This exercise starts the leadership portion of dog training in a very non confrontational way. You are defining the space and activity that the dog will inhabit while you are engaged in other activities. It starts the process of showing the dog how to quiet themselves down during certain times of day, and employ self control in distracting situations. ...